Day 41

We woke up, got ready and headed across the street for breakfast. As we approached I thought again, we will be waiting outside before they open. However, not only were they open but other people were already sitting inside. They were open before ‘opening’ early enough for these other people to already be sitting. This town was a surprise around every corner. 

While we sit waiting for our food we talked about all of the migrant workers we had seen in town. When I laid down to go to sleep I could hear the band across the street playing. It felt like this town’s population would jump this time every year. People would reconnect after maybe a full year since last they saw each other. This morning we did not see any of the revelers, but it was early. It was a interesting juxtaposition with all of these white squatter punk looking migrant workers hanging around a hill top town in Canada, when in America it feels so different… I type this but I actually have no idea. I have not been to any migrant worker towns in America, but the mental image is not white kids with dreds and bad tattoos. This was all the more pointed out by the article Jerry was reading, sighting facts such as 93,000 Canadians over stayed their allowed visit in 2017 as compared to 47,000 Mexicans. 

After breakfast he headed back to the hotel to finish getting ready. While we were getting ready I was also looking at the Canada website with all of the most updated wild fire information. I have been really impressed with all of the information the Canadian government has readily available for anyone. I feel like “better” information maybe available in the States… for a price. Looking at todays route did not look promising. The wild fire was 2 kilometers from our road and spreading. Either way, there would surely be smoke all over the road, and maybe even emergency vehicles in the way. We made the decision to go Route 3A North to the ferry across to Nelson. Not really the way we wanted or planed, but wild fires seem like a good reason to re-route. 

We were out of town in a few short blocks and heading North. When Route 3 turned left to head West I had a moment of I hope I’m not being too cautious. 

Route 3A road North along Kooteney Lake. To the right was the base of the mountain, and to the left was the lake. The road followed the curves of the lake and mountian… Rights, lefts, climbs and dives. It was a really fun ride. There were a few moments that were kind of scary when the shoulder fell away to nothing, or the drop was steep into a tight curve. But all in all a very nice ride. We shared stories, staring in a flat, pausing at a steep climb, continuing at the crest, pausing for the windy drop… It was a fun way to tell and hear stories. Questioning what’s going to happen next? Should I tell this part or that at my next moment? Can I get the important part out before it’s impractical to talk more? 

We stopped at a gas station for some water when we were close to the ferry. Inside we met the woman working there and quickly all of the customers were talking to us about how “crazy” we are. They told us we should have gone this way because the other way has too big of a hill. Even though… this way has a giant hill too… A cliff! I questioned in my head, do you think we should just turn around and go back? 

As we got closer and closer to the the ferry we thought was that the big hill? Is this? Where is this hill she didn’t even like riding over? Soon enough we found it. It was big… hill. I don’t want to be too cocky but today was the biggest day of changing altitudes, none very large but up, down, up, down all day. Even after all day of spinning up, coasting down, gear changing, adjusting, spinning… we hit the un-drivable hill, and spun up. It was hot, and I questioned if all of the haze was smoke from the fires, but we still went up the hill pretty unremarkable. 

The other side of the hill was just as steep, except down. It was mildly scary at a few moments but mostly fun. At one point there was a left turn in the road. Jerry made the turn a moment before me as a car came from a side road to our right. I had a moment of fear, will he pull out in front of me? I did not want to pull a hand off to wave or signal him, so I gave a large nod. He gave me a friendly wave as if to say, ‘I’ve got you.’  At the bottom of the hill there was a few numbered lanes where cars were lining up for the ferry. There was no real lead up or buffer area… I can’t imagine what this must be like in the winter. We paused to join the cue together, allowing the waving guy to end up in front of us. We got in the line behind him. He got out of his car and started chatting with us first with something about how much fun that must have been. He then shared how he once rode from Canada to Baja Mexico. Just a few quick antidotes before the family wanted to go to the store. 

We stayed on the cue, there wasn’t enough time or desire to really do anything any way. 

A moment or two later a man walking his dog approached. We chatted for a bit. His daughter is getting married next week and the family was all coming out from England. We talked about our ride, he seamed very interested, with out ever doing a bike tour of his own. He informed us that this is the longest free ferry in the world. Then a ferry employee came to tell us we should go to front of the line. We said our good byes and headed to the front. 

The ferry was within sight. Suddenly a group of 4 road bikes approached. They were an older group but all spry and excited to talk to us about our trip. We chatted for a bit about cycling and roads in Canada. We boarded the ferry together, left our bikes in the designated area and headed up stairs to the sitting area. 

Moments after we sat down a man st down behind me and started chatting with us. He told us about the area we were entering. It was all very interesting… Balfour was home to Charles Busk, who hoped to turn his 200 acres to an huge orchard. However when that didn’t work our he left streets named for his family, a church and the first boy scouts of the area behind. Over the next 100 or so years many different groups moved into the area. Russians fleeing persecution, Vietnam draft doggers, and Eastern medicine healers. He said the area has more Healers and body workers then a town 10 times it’s size. There is also an annual music festival, he compared to Burning Man, Shambhala. He told us about how great all of this was, and if we had a chance we should definitely go to Shambhala. 

After the ferry just 20 more miles to Nelson. We rode along the river the feeds the ****Lake. It was interesting how all day we rode on the right of the water and now we were on the left. It felt as if we rode all day this way and was now riding the other. We were now riding west and not in the opposite direction but it felt strange. It was noticeable that we were now riding west, if for nothing else the wind was of course now blowing us head on. 

The rode went across a bridge into town. It was strange that the town sign was on the North side of the river… almost as if they were sister cities on either side of the river, but it was just one town, with a motel and a few houses on the other side. Riding into town it looked kind of sparse. The hotel I was looking at was just a head a mile. As we approached a mile all I could see was a large construction site. Was this big hole the hotel that looked well placed and in budget? I double checked the map this big hole is where I had hoped to stay. I checked the map and we went ahead hoping the Best Western will be … well still standing. It was standing, but as literally the only not sold out hotel in town this will be our most expensive hotel yet… and hopefully of the trip. 

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MikeDiazTheFirst

Mike was born in Queen, New York to a blue collar family. An avid self educator, artist, and traveler he’s traveled around the globe three times while immersing himself in the culture of 48 different countries and counting.  Read about his journeys and musings here.

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